Dar karta noriu pasitikslinti: kokiu ismatavimu padangos turetu but ant astuoniolikiniu ant V8 ?

Na kad 'bomba' butu restauruojama tai dar neteko girdeti, ir nelabai isivaizduoju kaip tai imanoma.......

The hydraulic pressure accumulator ( BOMB ) holds pressure in the system for emergency assist if the hydraulic pump fails or the engine quits altogether. It's a nitrogen vessel that holds several thousand PSI. It is believed that over time the nitrogen leaks out of the system (diffused through the diaphragm), because almost all accumulators start to go bad after about seven years of service.
The standard tests:
If the brake light stays on for several seconds after starting the car, suspect the bomb.
After driving, shut down engine and pump brake pedal until it looses power assist (gets stiff). If it takes less than 10 presses of the pedal, you could have a bad bomb. Beware that when doing this test, the Pentosin reservoir may overflow (spew out the cap). This is because you are discharging the fluid from the bomb, and often the reservoir doesn't have enough space to hold the extra fluid. Consider removing some fluid before this test.
Press brake pedal as hard as possible while engine is running and car is stationary or moving slowly. If brake light comes on and the pedal initially feels like it has no assist, the bomb may not be holding pressure.
A thorough test:
Engine running at idle, steering to right or left full lock 20 seconds, at the same time pump brakes hard 10 to 15 consecutive times. Does brake light come on? Yes = bad belt, pump, or bomb (check valve). Try a pentosin bleed before replacing the parts!
If light doesn't come on: stop engine, pump brake 10 to 15 times (short quick strokes). Brake light on? Yes = bad bomb (pressure accumulator).
If light doesn't come on: Drive the car in a very safe place at 65 mph then apply full stop pressure to brakes (emergency stop pressure!). Does ABS actuate several times? Yes = good bomb! Brake light on? Yes = probably bad ABS sensor.

Tai zinoma kodel gi nepatikrinus draugiskai. Bet siuo atveju Tu turi problema, t.y. davikli, pakeiti ji, ir jungi prie kompo ziuret ar viskas gerai praktiskai is karto, o ne lauki kol tau draugiskai patikrinis nezinia kada 

Tai va as irgi ta el.ventiliatoriaus toki darba prisiminiau pagal 'silkes' 87 metu ir po to pradejau 'pusti' sita reikala savojoje V8. Bet skirtumas yra tas kad toj 'silkej' tas ventiliatorius valdosi nuo vieno daviklio kuris yra variklyje (nu kiek pamenu, neturiu lako dabar ieskot schemu-breziniu), todel ir galvoju pabandyti pasivazineti su atjungtu tuo radiatoriaus 'master' davikliu (blin cia kaip su kokiais hard drives      ) nes nu jei skydelyje parodymai 110, t.y. parodymai is variklio daviklio, tai kazi kiek belieka apacioje praejus skysciui pro radiatoriu ????? Cia su sita kibernetika mano manymu Audi persistenge. Ir kaip kad tas amerikonas raso:
The really quick minded may have seized on the fact that if you leave G83 unplugged an otherwise fully functional system will operate the way most would assume, with the fan coming on by engine temp and not radiator outlet temp. I dont recommend anyone intentionally bypass a sensor Audi installed but ..........
taip kad kodel gi ne ???
Ir dar, Tu nori pasakyt kad vasara per karscius jungi karsta ora ???? O kodel ne kondicionieriu ?? Juk su juo irgi pasileidzia el.ventiliatorius is karto. As iki siol taip ar taip vasara vazineju su ijungtu kondicionieriu ir su variklio temperatura viskas OK.
Tik va ziurint i schema, visdelto isjungus varikli ventiliatorius turetu pasileisti uzkaitus jam iki 105, bet is kitos puses kaip jis pasileis, jei paleidimo signala duoda tas G83 ???? karocie, beliberda polnajaaaaaa !!!!!  :f  :f 

Idomu, idomu, siaip pas save aushinimo sistemoje neitariu nieko blogo, supiltas originalus FebiG12+ niekur nevarva nedingsta ir tt. bet ateity pravers, nors tikiuosi, neteks pasinaudoti jei idomu, shiandien pakankamai shilta ir sauleta diena buvo kazkur 26 laipsniai berods vazinejau po miesta ir kamshtyje ilgesniam pastoveti teko ir ilgiau tiesia gatve 60 pariedeti atsiputus, temperaturos rodykle visalaik laikesi aplink 100 atzyma tai 1mm priesh ja, tai virsh jos.

Pas mane irgi lygiai tokia pat temperatura laikosi prie tokiu salygu, nors kelis kartus praeita vasara gal ir iki beveik 105 buvo uzkilusi, tik nezinau ar el.ventiliatorius jungesi ar ne, bet sunerimau as del to, kad jis niekada nesijunge uzgesinus, nes tada temp pakyla virs 105 - ir to as iki siol nezinau: turi jis jungtis esant isjungtam varikliui ar ne   ?!?  ?!?  . Siaip ne taip atlikau ir as ta testa, na atlikau taip ant greicio, labai laiko neturejau, tai kazkaip nevisai isitikinau ar tikrai per tris greicius perejo tas el.ventiliatorius, arba ten kazkuris greitis nelabai nuo kito skiriasi, arba as nespejau taip greit is masinos islipti ja uzvedes ir nepamaciau to pirmo greicio.....Siaip tai galvoju gal atjungti ta radiatoriaus davikli, kaip kad aprasyta tame teste, ir tada tas ventiliatorius jungtusi prie realios variklio temperaturos, o ne ausinimo skyscio po radiatoriaus   
Ir dar  - buvau pajunges kompa, tai ismete, kad pas mane visai kitas daviklis 'is fucked'  -    ir dabar jei teisingai pamenu (blin uzsirasiau ir namie palikau) tai oro srauto temperaturos daviklis, bet kol kas pagal elcats.ru nesiseka man tokio rast kurioj jis vietoj isuktas....      

Turiu ir aš, mano manymu, šviežių įdomių pastebėjimų   bet aprašysiu kai pribūsiu į vietą, bo
kitaip da prašiksiu lėktuvą      .......... ir visa kita....

nepatingesiu nes neturiu ka veikt surasysiu kelis numerius lauzynu klp gal kam pravers, o turetu:
beje butu malonu jei kas papildytu:
312995
237225
310003
421521
341427
366899
341428
313038
441214
441567
380816
342682
255226
478536
383108
342614
325219
va vsio daugiau neberandu. 

Jei dar kokį kartą neturėsi ką veikti, tai būtų laaabai malonu ir naudinga
jei pakoreguotum šitą sąrašiuką ir prie numerio darašytum kuris tai yra laužynas     
DËKOJU IŠ ANKSTO

Citata iš: gedis080  2007  Gegužės 11, 22:41:03

Ir dar atradau, čia kaip suprantu tas G83 šitam brėžinį yra nr.2  ?!? :

Start the engine from cold. Pop open the hood. Facing the motor, look at the front of the head on the driver's side.
You'll see a sensor (G83?) at the coolant output. Disconnect the harness. See if the fan runs through all three speeds.
If it goes through all three, the resistor pack etc. is good.
Re: I thought the sensor for the resistor pack test, forget what it's called, was down by the lower coolant hose on the passenger side of the motor. That'a the one I remember playing with and then listening to the fan cycle through all three speeds.

Idomumo delei ishbandziau pas save shi bajeri, atjungus davikli Nr2 jokios reakcijos, Nr2a - taip pat, bet kai atjungi juos abu, ventiliatorius tikrai prasisuka trimis savo greiciais.

   ale kaip pavedė mane su garažu (t.y. su duobe) - nu prapuolė kaip į vandenį ir jokių žinių, bl nežinau ką pagatavas padaryt     
Bet nėr to blogo kas neišeitų į gerą: aptikau tokį žymiai rimtesnį testą, ir kaip aš jo anksčiau nepastebėjau 

           --- About two temp sensors that control fan operation in a V8 ---

The following description applies to 3.6 and 4.2 cars.

There are two sensors, G82 on the left head, and G83 on the radiator about 1 inch from the outlet. Both are used by the fan control circuit of the instrument cluster.

G82 is used by the analog temp gauge circuit and for secondary control of the electric fan.

G83's only function is as the primary sensor for control of the electric fan

Due to the relative locations of these sensors in the system it is not only possible but virtually guaranteed that G83 will not read as hot as G82. The situation this brings on is the gauge starts climbing into the high end of its range and the outlet temp of the radiator may not be high enough to make the instrument cluster trigger the electric fan. (explaining the sudden rash of calls I'm getting from frantic owners)

Geeky stuff........ The instrument cluster fan control circuit completely ignores any reading from G82 as long as G83 is in the loop, that is to say providing a current path. Unplugging G83 results in the fan control circuit defaulting to G82 for fan control. Unplug them both and the fan control circuit assumes an overtemp condition, takes control of the gauge making it read on the high side, and engages the fan in 3rd speed.

IMO the test procedure in the manual is a perfect example how incomplete information can cause mechs and DIYers to develop bald spots. Since I despise "Easter egg" troubleshooting and "shotgun" repairs I've come up with my own tests to fully exercise the system, someone may find them helpful. If anyone decides to use these tests please read through them and notes a) thru d) before starting.

1) After the car has been running does the temp gauge have a reading? If so G82 is working and the wiring to the cluster is good. If the gauge reads low all the time the thermostat has probably failed, a defective G82 is possible but not likely. If the gauge doesnt read at all then do test 2, 3, and 4. If they pass but the gauge doesnt do anything in test 4 the gauge is defective.

2) With the car running place the climate control temp setting in LO and turn on the A/C. The fan should now cycle from low speed to second speed and then stay in 2nd speed. Obviously this test requires a fully operational A/C system. An alternate test is to jumper each speed by removing the respective relays at the fuse panel to verify fan operation.

3) Unplug G83 and insert a 100ohm resistor into the connector. Start the car. The fan should now cycle through all three speeds. If this doesnt happen proceed to test #4, if test #4 fails the chip in the cluster has failed.

4) Shut the car off and remove the resistor, leave the connector loose, unplug G82. Start the car. The temp gauge should now read high and the fan should cycle through all three speeds.

5) Shut off the car. Reconnect G82 and leave G83 unplugged. Take a short drive to ensure the engine is warm. Place a large section of cardboard in front of the radiator ensuring the entire radiator face is covered (it doesnt have to be perfect). Start the car. The temp should rise fairly rapidly past the 100c mark on the gauge. At about halfway between 100c and the next higher mark the electric fan should kick on in low speed.

6) Reconnect G83 and redo test 5 with this one change. The fan should come on at about the same temp as it occurred before. If it doesnt then G83 is either defective or the radiator is clogged.

Notes: a) The tests must be done in the order they are written for the results I've supplied to be valid.

b) The A/C should be off for all test with the exception of #2

c) The three speeds of the fan are pretty easy to recognize. Low speed should be almost silent but moving a pretty fair amount of air (much more than the engine fan) Second speed is easily heard and moves a lot of air. High speed sounds like a blow dryer on high and will make you think you have a small hurricane generator under the hood. For situations where the fan doesnt operate at all or fails to operate in one or two modes please refer to the manual for troubleshooting.

d) If you have an overtemp condition and the entire electric fan system is operational, there are a few other possibilities. Listed by likelihood IME: Failed mechanical fan clutch, clogged radiator, blown head gasket/cracked head, or stuck thermostat.

The really quick minded may have seized on the fact that if you leave G83 unplugged an otherwise fully functional system will operate the way most would assume, with the fan coming on by engine temp and not radiator outlet temp. I dont recommend anyone intentionally bypass a sensor Audi installed but ..........

I know of at least two V8s operating this way, and one will soon have two other mods to ensure proper cooling.

Citata iš: bajoras  2007  Balandžio 27, 12:50:11

pagal nuoroda i greicuu deze pilasi man 3ltr tepalo, nors kiek kas keites tai pila 8-9ltr

ir kur tiek telpa

jo, į V8 variklį 8 litrai tepalo; virš 10 litrų aušinimo skysčio, ir pamenu kad į greičių dėžę
daugiau nei į variklį, bet mažiau nei aušinimo skysčio    - tai gal ir bus apie 9 litrus,
bet tiksliai nebepamenu, šiuo atveju tame http://www.kroon-oil.com/uk/ yra įsivėlusi klaida.
Gal kas turit AUTODATA, ten irgi turėtų būt surašyta 'kokio ir kiek' .

  ir dar: gal žinai kurioj vietoj tiksliai yra užkištas tas 'kombi-processor' į kurį sueina visi to elektrinio
ventiliatoriaus scemos 'galai' (schemoje dešiniajame apatiniame kampe) ?         

Gi saugiklis yra shalia bakelio, juoda plastmasine dezute, o po bakeliu yra rezistoriu blokas - aliumininne melynai dazyta skarda su trim varzom - kaip ir matosi nuotraukoje jos fragmentas (kartais gali buti ir kitos spalvos) o reliu reik ieshkoti prie keleivio koju, daugiau niekur kitur ju nera.

Bet jai atidžiai pažiūrėjus į schemą, tai išeina, kad tik 1-os ir 2-os pakopos relės ir saugikliai yra tam relių ir saugiklių bloke prie keleivio kojų,
trečios pakopos relė į tą 'apibrėžimą' nepatenka, kaip kad ir pačio ventiliatoriaus saugiklis 

Audi centro būtent ir derėtų vengti, yra pilna kitū vietų kur moka kompą pajungt
ir plius dar sugeba paaiškinti ką jis parodė. Jei man reikėtu pasijungt kompą, tai aš varyčiau,
adreso dabar net neatsimenu, bet jei važiuot Šilutės plentu link Rimkų, tai po kaire ranka
privažiuotum Šilutės pl. 100. Tai va lygiai ties ta vieta tik įvažiuot reikia iš tos Šilutės pl.
pusės, kuri eina link Klaipėdos (kaip žinom ten vienpusis eismas). Ten yra atskiri nuo visų kitų
du garažai, na ten jau matysis, mašinų pilna visalaik................

VA DABAR VISKAS AIŠKU. Su šampano pagalba bandau čia kažką išmąstyti,
bet žiūriu kad ne kokia pagalba iš jo... :f
Bet pas manes mėlynos spalvos nieko toje vietoje nėra - tai pagalvojau
gal pats nudažei, taip sakant 'tuo pačiu' 
blin biški čia visokios šventės ir progos buvo mane apipuolę ir nebespėjau atsakyti
dėl forumo (o ir joks tenai forumas), ir kas man keisčiausia - tai kad nežinai:
http://www.audifans.com/twiki/bin/view/Audi/V8
arba daugiau
http://www.audifans.com/
ir
http://www.audipages.com/ - šitas tai netgi viisai nablogas A8 savininkams